San Miguel de Allende

After Mexico City Kristina and I took a bus to San Miguel de Allende. The bus ride lasted about four and a half hours, and it was already dark by the time we arrived. From the bus station we took a taxi to arrive at our quaint little hostel named Hostel Alcatraz. We were given sheets and our keys and shown to our room, which we were to be sharing with three other girls. The entire hostel only has four bedrooms, each with 2 to 3 bunk beds. After settling in we went back downstairs to introduce ourselves to a group of other guests sitting in the kitchen. We met three guys from Canada and a man from Rhode Island. Also we met two of our bunkmates, two women from Holland. They gave us some advice on where to eat so we walked out to explore a bit and get some food after our long journey. It was a bit late and most everything looked closed, but there was a taco stand on the side of the street still serving up tacos. We each ordered some tacos. They were delicious, served with cilantro, fried onions, pineapple and cucumber. It was exactly what I needed after a long day of travels. When we got back we spent some time in the kitchen talking to the other guests before heading to bed early.
The next morning the weather finally decided to clear up and we were gifted clear skies and lots of sun. Our first mission was to find some breakfast so we began walking towards the centro to find a café. It defiantly wasn’t hard to find. We decided on a café which we later discovered was called “Billy’s Hotdogs,” however at the time we were enticed by the cute little outside patio with high walls covered in hanging flower arrangements. And the food did not disappoint. We ordered huevos rancheros and a hot beverage, which was served with a scone and strawberry jam. Perfect way to start out a day. Then, with no particular goals in mind, we began our exploration of San Miguel. It didn’t take long to realize that San Miguel is most definitely a popular retirement/vacation location for a large population of Americans. Every shop seemed to cater to the rich elderly American stereotype, and gringos seem to dominate the population of wandering people and those eating in each restaurant we saw. The beauty of every street corner and cobble stone street attests to the reason so many have chosen to return to San Miguel to live or vacation. Every corner presented a new photo opportunity, with the quaint little houses and beautiful cactus pot arrangements on every patio and rooftop. After a good long exploration on foot, we decided to take a taxi to view a real “tourist destination,” the botanical gardens. Located on the hilltop above the city the botanical gardens are not only amazing landscaped, but allow for a view of the entire valley of San Miguel below. We spent about two hours wandering around the beds of strange cactus species before returning to San Miguel to get some food. We ate in a cute little café/restaurant called Ten Ten Pie. I had a delicious torta and Kristina had enchiladas. Later that night we met a group of Chilean girls on school vacation who were taking a backpacking tour of Mexico. We spent the evening talking we them in Spanish about Chile and their travels so far. I found it much harder to understand their Spanish than the Spanish of the Mexicans. I had to pay close attention when they spoke or else I wasn’t able to catch what they said. We exchanged emails, and they mentioned that they might be passing through Puebla later this month. So maybe we will see them again.
Saturday morning was beautifully sunny again and we set out to get breakfast quite late. We ate in an organic café named “El Media Naranja.” I got an ordered a delicous vegetable omelet with toast and mango-pineapple jam. The jam was fantastic; I wish I knew where to buy it or how to make it. Next we decided to check out the Artisan Market, which consisted of rows and rows of artists stalls filled with hand made crafts and gifts. Attached to the Artisan Market was the vegetable marketplace with wonderful fresh fruits and veggies. We decided to buy some produce to make tacos for later that day. We also decided to try paddle-cactus, because we always seem to see it in all the marketplaces. It cost less than 50 pesos (5 dollars) to buy enough produce and ingredients (tortillas, beans ect) to make tacos for dinner that night and then again the next morning. Not to mention they were absolutely delicious. We bought mangos and avocados as well, which I must say were the best avocados and mangos I have ever eaten. Later that evening one of our roommates mentioned that there was a gallery anniversary party going on that night, so we decided to go. We invited another girl staying in the hostel who was from Belgium to come with us. I don’t know exactly what I was expecting but the gallery was enormous. Apparently it had been a warehouse that was converted into a combination of about 30 or more artists’ gallery space. It was packed with very well dressed Americans drinking free wine and eating chile-powder covered peanuts. It was fun to see all the pretentious artwork priced in U.S. dollars, but it was somehow very disheartening. I don’t think I would want to live in San Miguel and have to live around all sorts of well-to-do Americans who don’t speak a word of Spanish. We ran into some other guests from the hostel in the Art Gallery and made plans to hang out for the rest of the evening. We went to a fun bar with a sort of Irish Pub atmosphere. Danced until we were completely exhausted and then trudged back to our hostel to sleep.
Sunday morning we used the rest of our taco ingredients to make breakfast, and then made our way back to the bus station to catch a bus to Mexico City and then from Mexico City to Puebla. We made it back to Puebla around 6, after about 7 hours of travel in bus listening to loud action movies in Spanish. Long week of traveling, but it was all worth it.